Northern puffer fish12/1/2023 McDonnell fish company, based in Maryland, which provides clean tails that require minimal trimming at the restaurant. The Voltaggios, too, source locally, through the J.J. “But now, due to their growing popularity, some boats are fishing for them as a primary catch,” he says. According to Langhorne, the fish were originally reeled in as a bycatch product, swept along with other, more desirable species in commercial fishing. Langhorne’s sugar toads are sourced and fished from the waters of the Mid-Atlantic region. Eater NY critic Ryan Sutton suggests pairing the dish with pet-nat, a bubbly wine produced without the addition of yeast or sugar. At Frenchette, one of Eater’s 2018 Best New Restaurants, the restaurant prepares the tails in a chile butter and grills them, bone-in. At Lilia, it appears under the name “blowfish” and is served grilled with lemon salmoriglio and cracked coriander. The fish has also been spotted at popular New York City spots Frenchette and Lilia. Over the years, Langhorne says, he has tried to change the recipe, “but our guests revolted, so we changed it back.” They’re then doused in spiced buttermilk marinade, dredged in flour, and deep-fried before a final glaze. The cuts of fish arrive headless and are trimmed to remove fins and outer membranes. Langhorne’s dish is prepared in a manner similar to Buffalo wings. has served his own version of puffer fish, or sugar toads, since the restaurant opened in 2015. In addition to the Voltaggio brothers at Estuary, chef Jeremiah Langhorne of the Dabney in D.C. The fish are known for their firm but tender white meat, and over the past few years, restaurant chefs have taken note. In the United States, nontoxic puffer fish can be found most often on the East Coast, and commonly in Southern cooking. Puffer fish tails at the Dabney The Dabney Where can you find puffer fish in the U.S. Other names include blow toads, swelling toads, sea squab, honey toad, and sugar toads, all references to the way the fish bloat up like amphibians. Some are poisonous, while others, like the northern puffer fish, are not. The fish goes by several names, and all of them - puffer fish, fugu, blowfish - refer to the same family of scaleless fish with a rough and spiky skin. Are puffer fish and blowfish the same thing? The particular puffer fish used in the U.S., Sphoeroides maculatus, is one of more than 150 varieties of puffer fish and can be found in estuaries and bays along the Eastern seaboard. In recent months, versatile preparations of the Atlantic Ocean’s northern puffer fish - especially puffer fish tails, or the portion of the fish from just behind its head to its tail fin - have been spotted at restaurants in the United States fried like fish sticks, breaded like Buffalo wings, and even grilled with spices. Voltaggio likens the experience of eating them to eating chicken wings, due to the small bone that runs down the center of the tail. They’re served with tartar sauce that’s folded with a little bit of banana for sweetness, plus a side of pickled banana peppers. Though not battered and fried, the fish tails get slightly crispy. “They can be a very easy finger food.”Īt Estuary, puffer fish tails are marinated in mirin (a Japanese rice wine) and tamari and quickly roasted in oil. “It’s probably one of the greatest little snacks that comes out of the water,” Bryan Voltaggio says. have long served the fish, increasingly, it’s appearing on restaurant menus in a different form. But beneath the spines and despite the tetrodotoxins lies a succulent white fish, says Bryan Voltaggio, a Top Chef alum who just opened the Estuary in Washington, D.C., along with his brother, and Top Chef winner, Michael Voltaggio. Famously, the variety of puffer fish most often served in Japan contains a poisonous toxin and requires special regulations for its preparation. At first glance, puffer fish may not appear the most appetizing of foods: the northern puffer, a club-shaped fish that can grow to eight to 10 inches and inflates into a spiny ball under duress, is unappealing by design.
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